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Auxiliary Battery Setup for 80 Series

1FZ-FE (and possibly 3F) engine

Attached are the required parts, tools and procedure to install an auxiliary battery into the 80 series Lancdruiser wagon. What is NOT included is how to connect them using the battery isolator, since there are so many different types available. I will describe how mine is connected together at the end.

Parts and Tool List

The parts I needed to carry out the task are defined below. I expect you will already have some available from your tool kit or scrap box.

Toyota Parts List

Qty Part Number Description Cost A$
1 7440360100 Carrier Sub-Assy 98.00
4 9017906223 Nut - Battery Clamp 4.16
5 91652G0820 Bolt HZJ80 5.20
1 7445360060 Bar, battery Securing 25.30
1 7445160040 Bolt, Battery carrier 12.66

KMART Parts List

Qty Part Number Description Cost A$

1 EW3T3 Washer bottle and motor 19.98



Most of the tools used are common power and hand tools. Many would be in your tool kit I would expect. Below is a list of tools I used to carry out the task;

Power drill and drill bits

Pop rivet tool and rivets

Metric socket set

Semi gloss black paint

Sharp knife or jigsaw

Bastard (or course) file

6m (12') of 18 gauge figure 8 electrical wire

assortment of spade electrical connectors and crimping tool

electrical tape

cable ties


1. Drill out the rivets holding the AIR FILTER VACUUM WARNING SWITCH.

2. Plug the holes with silastic and paint when dry.

3. Remove the washer bottle

4. Remove the radiator overflow bottle

5. Remove the insulation tape and protective conduit from the washer motor leads all the way back to the junction near the RH guard.

6. Separate the washer motor leads from the wiring loom back to the junction near the RH guard.

7. Re wrap the loom, minus the wash motor leads, using electrical tape and the original conduit.

8. Push the loom which goes to the engine block back under the air cleaner canister

9. Insert the battery carrier assy to determine what (if any) modifications are required to make it fit.

10. Carry out any modifications to the tray to permit it to fit. Mine required opening up one bolt hole and trimming the small flange with the foam adjacent to the radiator with a SHARP knife or jigsaw and file.

11. Install the battery tray using the 5 bolts.

12. Pull the windscreen washer bottle hose all the way back the the left rear of the engine bay.

13. Terminate the figure 8 electrical cable with spade connectors suitable to match the existing washer bottler motor connections.

14. Tape the figure 8 wire and washer bottler motor connections securely together.

15. Run the figure 8 electrical cable back along the RH guard, across the firewall to the LH side, and forward toward the existing battery, using the space created by removing the windscreen washer hose.

16. Use cable ties to hold the washer bottler motor leads amongst the other electrical loom.

17. Locate the washer bottle at a suitable point on the LH side of the engine bay. Mine is mounted on the stay which supports the fuel evaporation canister.

18. Drill and debur support arm.

19. Secure the new washer bottle mounting.

21. Cut the new wash bottle motor electrical lead to the required length.

22. Terminate the new wash bottle motor electrical lead with the appropriate connectors.

23. Mount the washer bottle assembly onto the washer bottle mount.

24. Fill the washer bottle with water.

25. Test the functionality of the washer bottle.

26. Troubleshoot the windscreen washer system as/if required.

Battery Isolator

The alternator of the fitted to the 1FZ-FE engine in Australia will output over 130A at 14.4V. This is more than many battery isolators can handle, especially electronic units. I have found a 150A unit, but decided the cost was just too high.

The principal of operation of charging the second battery is that it will only happen when the engine is running, and the dashboard lamp is OFF (ie 12V or more from the alternator).

Instead of the electronic isolator I have used a heavy relay, driven from the output of the charge indicator cct. This can be accessed from the fuse box just behind the original battery on the LHS of the vehicle. It is a bit difficult to get to. You will need to undo the fuse box mounting bolts and remove the lid to get sufficient access to the internal wiring. Simply crimp a ScotchLock (or similar compression wire joiner) onto the wire here. I ran the activating wire in the existing loom to the relay.

The relay end of this lead was connected to the relay using standard spade connectors. The other side of the relay was taken to ground.

The two remaining terminals on the relay are connected one to each battery. The lead connected to the original battery has a 50A bi-metallic fuse inline.

Since I also run a winch, it would be ideal to connect the two batteries in parallel for this purpose. It was also decided to remove power from the from of the front of the car, until the winch was need to be used. This required two heavy duty battery switches (I used the Hella units, with a string thru the keys so that they would not get lost).

One switch connects the batteries together (across the battery contacts of the relay), and the other switch connects the batteries to the winch. In this configuration I used about 3ft of starter cable to connect the auxiliary battery to the battery switch. Each end of the battery leads have crimp on eyelets.

One side of the battery switches are common to the original (primary battery). The other side of each switch runs either to the winch or auxiliary battery.

The battery switches are located directly in front of the original battery, on a custom aluminium bracket bolted to the front top cross support. They are easy to get to in this position.

The diagram below provides a simplified diagram of the connections I used to connect the auxiliary battery into the charging system. Note that I did not insert any new wiring into the factory wiring. All connections are in addition to that already on the car as delivered from the factory.


Power Distribution

Power is distributed through the car via a 35A bi-metalic fuse on the RH guard, adjacent to the auxiliary battery. From here 16 gauge wire runs inside the cabin to a fuse box.

All the additional equipment is connected to this fuse box. The fuse box uses the same type of plastic fuses as the car. The equipment connected includes;


HF radio (120W)

VHF radio


27Mhz CB

477Mhz CB

Mobile Phone

power outlets

All information supplied herein is supplied without warranty or any liability of the author. If you use this information you are required to take full responsibility of all and any actions you undertake. The author accepts no responsibility for your electrical or mechanical abilities. Use at your own risk. 16 Aug 97