Auxiliary Battery Setup for 80 Series
1FZ-FE (and possibly 3F) engine
Attached are the required parts, tools and procedure to install
an auxiliary battery into the 80 series Lancdruiser wagon. What is
NOT included is how to connect them using the battery isolator,
since there are so many different types available. I will describe
how mine is connected together at the end.
Parts and Tool List
The parts I needed to carry out the task are defined below. I
expect you will already have some available from your tool kit or
Toyota Parts List
||Nut - Battery Clamp
||Bar, battery Securing
||Bolt, Battery carrier
KMART Parts List
||Washer bottle and motor
Most of the tools used are common power and hand tools. Many
would be in your tool kit I would expect. Below is a list of tools
I used to carry out the task;
Power drill and drill bits
Pop rivet tool and rivets
Metric socket set
Semi gloss black paint
Sharp knife or jigsaw
Bastard (or course) file
6m (12') of 18 gauge figure 8 electrical wire
assortment of spade electrical connectors and crimping tool
1. Drill out the rivets holding the AIR FILTER VACUUM WARNING
2. Plug the holes with silastic and paint when dry.
3. Remove the washer bottle
4. Remove the radiator overflow bottle
5. Remove the insulation tape and protective conduit from the
washer motor leads all the way back to the junction near the RH guard.
6. Separate the washer motor leads from the wiring loom back to
the junction near the RH guard.
7. Re wrap the loom, minus the wash motor leads, using
electrical tape and the original conduit.
8. Push the loom which goes to the engine block back under the
air cleaner canister
9. Insert the battery carrier assy to determine what (if any)
modifications are required to make it fit.
10. Carry out any modifications to the tray to permit it to
fit. Mine required opening up one bolt hole and trimming the small
flange with the foam adjacent to the radiator with a SHARP knife
or jigsaw and file.
11. Install the battery tray using the 5 bolts.
12. Pull the windscreen washer bottle hose all the way back the
the left rear of the engine bay.
13. Terminate the figure 8 electrical cable with spade
connectors suitable to match the existing washer bottler motor
14. Tape the figure 8 wire and washer bottler motor connections
15. Run the figure 8 electrical cable back along the RH guard,
across the firewall to the LH side, and forward toward the
existing battery, using the space created by removing the
windscreen washer hose.
16. Use cable ties to hold the washer bottler motor leads
amongst the other electrical loom.
17. Locate the washer bottle at a suitable point on the LH side
of the engine bay. Mine is mounted on the stay which supports the
fuel evaporation canister.
18. Drill and debur support arm.
19. Secure the new washer bottle mounting.
21. Cut the new wash bottle motor electrical lead to the
22. Terminate the new wash bottle motor electrical lead with
the appropriate connectors.
23. Mount the washer bottle assembly onto the washer bottle
24. Fill the washer bottle with water.
25. Test the functionality of the washer bottle.
26. Troubleshoot the windscreen washer system as/if required.
The alternator of the fitted to the 1FZ-FE engine in Australia
will output over 130A at 14.4V. This is more than many battery
isolators can handle, especially electronic units. I have found a
150A unit, but decided the cost was just too high.
The principal of operation of charging the second battery is
that it will only happen when the engine is running, and the
dashboard lamp is OFF (ie 12V or more from the alternator).
Instead of the electronic isolator I have used a heavy relay,
driven from the output of the charge indicator cct. This can be
accessed from the fuse box just behind the original battery on the
LHS of the vehicle. It is a bit difficult to get to. You will need
to undo the fuse box mounting bolts and remove the lid to get
sufficient access to the internal wiring. Simply crimp a
ScotchLock (or similar compression wire joiner) onto the wire
here. I ran the activating wire in the existing loom to the relay.
The relay end of this lead was connected to the relay using
standard spade connectors. The other side of the relay was taken
The two remaining terminals on the relay are connected one to
each battery. The lead connected to the original battery has a 50A
bi-metallic fuse inline.
Since I also run a winch, it would be ideal to connect the two
batteries in parallel for this purpose. It was also decided to
remove power from the from of the front of the car, until the
winch was need to be used. This required two heavy duty battery
switches (I used the Hella units, with a string thru the keys so
that they would not get lost).
One switch connects the batteries together (across the battery
contacts of the relay), and the other switch connects the
batteries to the winch. In this configuration I used about 3ft of
starter cable to connect the auxiliary battery to the battery
switch. Each end of the battery leads have crimp on eyelets.
One side of the battery switches are common to the original
(primary battery). The other side of each switch runs either to
the winch or auxiliary battery.
The battery switches are located directly in front of the
original battery, on a custom aluminium bracket bolted to the
front top cross support. They are easy to get to in this position.
The diagram below provides a simplified diagram of the
connections I used to connect the auxiliary battery into the
charging system. Note that I did not insert any new wiring into
the factory wiring. All connections are in addition to that
already on the car as delivered from the factory.
Power is distributed through the car via a 35A bi-metalic fuse
on the RH guard, adjacent to the auxiliary battery. From here 16
gauge wire runs inside the cabin to a fuse box.
All the additional equipment is connected to this fuse box. The
fuse box uses the same type of plastic fuses as the car. The
equipment connected includes;
HF radio (120W)
All information supplied herein is supplied
without warranty or any liability of the author. If you use this
information you are required to take full responsibility of all
and any actions you undertake. The author accepts no
responsibility for your electrical or mechanical abilities. Use at
your own risk. 16 Aug 97