Snorkels



See installation notes and pictures from James DuBose



> G'day everyone,
>
> I was wondering what the group consensus on snorkels is.
>
> I have had a bit of a look around, and I found a Safari for $450, or
> thereabouts.

The Safari Snorkel is one of the best on the market for an 80 Series. I wouldn't go past ARB in Abbortsford (Melbourne) for fitting. You're in Brisbane right? ;-)

Things to look out for are to ensure that the guy that fits it knows what he's doing. Don't let them drill great big holes so that it all lines up, ask for a base gasket (it no longer comes with one, otherwise it rubs the paint and will eventually rust) and make sure they don't just spray gray primer on the bare metal from drilling (it absorbs moisture and again will eventually rust. At least get them to use the touch-up paint you got with the car).

I think a snorkel is invaluable for peace of mind in water and dust. It also boosts power (they won't fit an intercooler or turbo unless you have a snorkel). I noticed a difference when I had it installed on my 4.5. The TD's getting one fitted as I type this.... Oh yeah, be careful if you get a canister pre-filter on it. The added weight and air resistance/buffeting will affect the A pillar mounting screws. They'll eventually work loose and the regular retightening will strip the threads.

The snorkel's also a good place to mount a gps antennae and it looks cool. Be careful if you buff the car with a power buff. If you catch the snorkel you'll never get rid of the marks.

Oh yeah, the front grille on the air ram breaks if you whack them on branches. Once broken, you get things like small birds in your air filter....


With the help of Kendall my 80 is now center diff switched and snorkeled. Took some pictures and will send them to John and George when I have scanned them.

Here are some random thoughts on the install. These are all for US 80's

1. Trust the template. I measured about 10 times and then Kendall convinced me the template was correct, even thought I wanted to lower it.
2. With the template in position the middle upper hole is VERY close to the antenna.
3. Cut a notch out of the template around the antenna mount to make it lay flat.
4. After getting the template in the correct position, recheck the position of the snorkel.
5. Make sure you have clearance around the mirror and that the door open.
6. Mark the holes and remove template, then use masking tape over the marks and also tape the whole area where the big hole must go.
7. Put the template back and then mark the holes again. Remove template and your marks should be on the masking tape. Punch center for big hole first and drill pilot hole.
8. Use holesaw to make big hole FIRST. The tape on the whole area help the saw from sliding and would protect the paint if you slipped.
9. After you have the big hole and calmed your nerves, put the template back on and cut the template to also have the big hole.
10. Insert the studs into the snorkel and then do the final fitting. It is easier to get the studs to line up with the holes in the template. Note position of studs exactly and drill smaller holes.

Once this is done you can now start to fit the snorkel to the antenna. We did this with a plumbers small propane torch. I am not sure if a heatgun will be enough to soften the plastic. I found the torch to be more controllable because the heat is concentrated and you can hear a smaller area.

Fit the snorkel and mark the location where it meets the antenna. Remove snorkel and put down in workbench with the side the goes against the vehicle upwards. Now the fun starts, heat the area around the mark you made with the flame and be careful not to get to close. Push down with a piece of pipe that is about 1" diameter. You can use it to roll the material back and forth.

The key is to not heat the top part (position the snorkel such that the bottom faces away from you on the bench) of the snorkel. The heat tends to smoothen the rough finish on the snorkel and you want to limit this to the back side that is against the car and not the top that you can see.

Be patient and just do small amounts at a time, fit and then do it again. On my installation the snorkel ended up flush at the top with the antenna and we had to get a "notch" that was about 1/2" deep into the side. Pictures will explain better. The last fit  was done by heating it and putting the snorkel in place and pushing against the antenna mount to get a flush fit.

Once you have it flush against the body, you can mark the top holes for the top bracket as per the instructions.

IMPORTANT. I did not drill the holes the size as recommended. Kendall warned me before the time that they little plastic inserts was very loose when he did his and indeed one of them is starting to pull out a bit.  Either get round inserts (they are like drywall plugs that expand when you screw into them) or do what we did.

Drill a whole that is smaller than the square size of the insert, then using small files, shape the holes to be square and fit the inserts snugly. This will make a much better fit than doing the big round holes as stated in the instructions.

O, you also need a person with LOOONG arms and fingers to get the nuts and washers on the studs (thanks Kendall)

The rest of the install is just as per the instructions.