On the way to the 80s COOL Australian gathering in September, we took the opportunity to head out to Ceduna in SA to travel North along Goog's Track. A recent article in 4x4 Australia magazine caught our attention when it described this track as "possibly the best 4WD track in Australia". Whilst this track is indeed a track which every outback traveller should experience, one should not pay much attention to the article for it contained many errors.

The track begins at the Lone Oak farmhouse, about 30 km North of Ceduna and is run by Jenny Denton. Jenny (Pictured above - yes she too drives an 80) is a real character and every traveller must make a point of stopping by the farmhouse and say hello to her. For many years, Jenny and her husband, affectionately known as Goog, would sit on the back veranda looking North and wondering what was out there in the scrub. They decided to find out for themselves and in 1973 set out to build a track to Tarcoola.

It took 3 years and cost the life of their Son before they pushed though to Mt. Finke and Tarcoola. Jenny tells a touching story and one which brings home what outback life is all about.
 
 

We left Jenny late in the morning and headed into thick scrub on a firm sand track. In only a few kms though, the road opened up into the traditional desert track and the sand became softer. It is not difficult driving with the tallest dunes 20 or so meters in height. Dropping the tyre pressures down to 25 psi made the going easy for the vehicle, its occupants and for the track itself.

Lunch was had by the Rock hole. A large solid granite expanse with water caught in the substantial cracks. It was a good opportunity for the kids to run around and explore all manner of water life in what water was left. 

We left the main track and headed E-SE following the south edge of Goog's Lakes. The area is a patchwork of ever changing vegetation and punctuated by small dry salt lakes. Few visitors venture this way and the track is overgrown and at times difficult to follow. The whole area was quite beautiful and we decided to camp in the area for the night.

The scene from our tent was a glorious one with lush vegetation around us overlooking the heat shimmering from the dry lake.

The lake we camped by had mysterious shaped rocks on the lake bed. Something quite unusual for desert dry salt lakes. The appearance of the rocks was unusual as well with crystal quartz and iron molten and fused together.

A late start and back onto the track proper. Not long before we reached the touching memorials to Goog and son. Opposite here is the site where the Dentons had built a shack which the National Parks and Wildlife Service demanded be destroyed.

Only a few kms before we hit the Western end of Goog's Lakes. There is some great camping in the area and you could easily spend days exploring. It's a very pretty white salt lake with a central island. The lake edges rise into tall dunes which vary from white to rust red. It's advisable to not venture out onto the dry lake bed in your vehicle (no matter how tempting it may be). The surface, whilst seemingly hard, can change without visual warning. This stuff swallows vehicles.

We decided to push on and perhaps explore Jellabina Rocks, not realizing that they were a good 100 km's off the main track. Not long into the trip and the dunes offered a bit more of a challenge. The problem is though that previous travellers had been silly. It's obvious that some had been reluctant to drop their tyre pressures and had created some deep holes whilst trying to climb the steeper dunes. Even at the "high" 25 psi we were running, we could easily take off from stand still where the last people had ground to a tyre spinning halt.

Throughout much of the area we found many quandong trees laden with ripe fruit. The quandong is quite a novel fruit. A tart, citrus like pith covering a large brain like stone centre. We all ate some and the kids were fascinated by the fruit's stone.

We decided to camp back at Goog's lake and on the road there we came across a Blue Tongue lizard defending his track. He sat there and hissed and hissed and hissed. We eventually coaxed him to the side of the track with some pieces of cut apple which he readily attacked.

Our camp was pitched at the top of a dune some 20m above the main lake on the SW tip. As the kids gathered dead fire wood, I took the opportunity to relax with a nice Cohiba and a Bourbon and Coke. With a gentle breeze coming from the lake, the sun firing up the red dunes and the flies calling it a day, it was one of those moments that make life long memories.

Up early to catch another magical desert sunrise. The view from our tent overlooking the salt lake below and the colours of the sky is one that we will remember for a long, long time. Unfortunately the flies were up early too so we hit the road.

We spent the morning following the Northern shores of the lakes and whilst near the beginning the track is well defined, it becomes difficult to follow the further East you travel. With all the small lakes around you, it can be confusing deciding where you actually are. Those that venture far along the shores need to be alert and a GPS along with the knowledge to use it is handy.

Back on the track again heading for Mt. Finke. A morning tea stop by the side of the track and rather than just boiling the billy, we lived it up with a quick damper scones and lashings of jam. Just in time, a cool breeze blew up and all the flies simply vanished.

As we travelled further North, the dunes became closer spaced and well vegetated. The track so far had been similar to the QAA line in the Simpson Desert, only more vegetated (and with a greater variety of plants).

Out of nowhere, the vegetation changed from thick scrub to sparse trees and valleys of wild flowers. Whites, pinks, purples and yellows contrasting against the red sand, lush green foliage and black trunks. The only thing missing was a blue sky for it had clouded over and threatened rain.

Mt. Finke finally and the track scrambles up part of the way. Yes, the last part is steep and covered in loose rock. The rest is by foot to the peak but well worth the effort over rock and spinifex.

A 30 min climb and you are rewarded with 360 degree views from the cairn at the peak of Mt. Finke. Evidence of visitors here dates back to 1875.

A lovely camp at the base of the mountain, however that evening the heavens lit up with a violent lightening storm. The thunder was deafening. The sound energy pounded through our bodies. But with bad comes good. The lightening lit up Mt. Finke. From either side, front and back, the lightening danced around the mountain and kept us quite entertained.

I was concerned that it may rain, for to continue travelling North, we would have to cross over a salt lake and through the stuff that turns into black bottom less muck. I had previously scouted ahead and had mentally marked out a route across just in case, but if there was heavy rain, I don't think we'd have attempted it.

The next day began with cloud and no rain. We breezed across the lakes and to the end of Goog's road. The end is marked with a sign however the suggested UHF channel is misprinted. You should use channel 18 at all times when on the track. Lone Oak farmhouse also operates on ch 18 UHF.

The sand here was very red in colour and made for a pleasant lunch stop. It may be the end of Goog's Road, however there is still some way to go. Mainly following the dog fence until you hit the railway line at Malbooma station. From there it's a wide fast dirt road and 39 km to Tarcoola.

A fun trip for those who want a taste of the variety Australian deserts have to offer, but condensed into a short 170 km track. A sand flag is mandatory. You will be cresting dunes and will be unable to see any oncoming traffic.

If planning on travelling south along the track, the point at which you need to turn off the main east-west dirt road through Tarcoola is easy to miss. There are no sign posts. Look for a track heading south across the railway line at the point identified by the last coordinates listed below.

George Couyant
'97 HDJ80 - Melbourne Australia